The size of the food should not exceed 1.5 times the thickest part of the snake’s body (e.g., baby mice, adult mice, etc.). It is recommended to feed baby snakes thawed baby mice, and gradually increase the size of the prey for adult snakes. Feeding frequency varies by species; generally, baby snakes should be fed once a week, and adult snakes once every 2–3 weeks. Take care to prevent live mice from biting the snakes; it is recommended to feed thawed frozen prey.

Bearded dragons are omnivores and require a balanced diet:

Insects (such as crickets and Dubia roaches) should make up 70% of a juvenile’s diet and 30% of an adult’s diet;

Vegetables (Chinese broccoli, dandelion leaves, carrots) should be provided daily;

Calcium: Sprinkle reptile-specific calcium powder (containing D3) over their food 2–3 times a week;

Vitamins: Supplement with a reptile multivitamin on a regular basis.

Turtles rely on UVB rays from sunlight to synthesize vitamin D3, which helps them absorb calcium and prevent softshell disease. When keeping them in captivity:

Use a UVB lamp (5.0 or 10.0 intensity) for 10–12 hours of daily exposure;

Set up a basking area (such as a flat rock) with a heat lamp underneath to maintain a temperature of 30–35°C;

When exposed to natural sunlight, avoid direct, intense sunlight and provide a shaded area.

Environmental stress: Recently arrived or unstable ambient temperature (recommended temperature: 28–32°C);

Molting period: Geckos may stop eating for 1–2 days before molting;

Digestive issues: Feeding insects that are too large or accidental ingestion of substrate (we recommend using paper towels instead of sand);

Illness: Such as parasitic infections; seek veterinary care promptly.

Diet: Feed juvenile frogs small crickets and fruit flies; adult frogs can be fed baby mice (once a month) and crickets, etc.;

Feeding Frequency: Feed juvenile frogs every other day; feed adult frogs 2–3 times a week;

Hygiene: Use tweezers to feed to prevent accidental ingestion of substrate; replace the water dish with clean water after feeding;

Calcium Supplementation: Food should be dusted with calcium powder regularly to prevent metabolic bone disease.

Symptoms: Skin wrinkles, sunken eyes, sluggish movement;

Hydration methods:

Provide a shallow water dish (similar to a snake bath);

Use a dropper to administer water directly into the lizard’s mouth;

Maintain environmental humidity at 50–70% (tropical species require higher levels);

In cases of severe dehydration, administer an electrolyte solution (specifically formulated for reptiles).

This may be a case of dysecdysis, commonly caused by insufficient humidity or malnutrition.

Treatment:

Soak the snake in warm water (28–30°C) for 15–20 minutes, then gently wipe it to help the skin shed;

Use a damp cotton swab to remove stubborn skin fragments (paying special attention to the eye area);

Adjust the terrarium humidity to 60–80% and place rough rocks to aid in shedding.

Prevention: Spray water regularly, provide a water dish, and supplement with vitamin A (such as a moderate amount of liver) after feeding.

Suspected metabolic bone disease (MBD), caused by calcium deficiency or insufficient UVB exposure.

Emergency treatment:

Immediately supplement with reptile-specific calcium supplements (liquid calcium is more easily absorbed);

Replace the UVB lamp with a high-intensity one (10.0), providing 12 hours of exposure daily;

Adjust the diet: reduce high-phosphorus foods (such as crickets) and increase calcium-rich vegetables (such as kale).

Prevention: Provide regular exposure to natural sunlight or use a certified UVB lamp; dust food with calcium powder.

This may be due to an eye infection (such as vitamin A deficiency or poor water quality).

Steps:

Clean the eyes with eye drops specifically formulated for reptiles (such as chloramphenicol eye drops containing antibiotics);

During dry-housing, soak the animal in electrolyte solution daily (to replenish fluids);

Improve water quality: Install a filter and maintain a water temperature of 25–28°C.

Prevention: Change the water regularly and provide foods rich in vitamin A (such as carrots and pumpkin).

This may be tail necrosis caused by trauma or a bacterial infection.

Treatment:

For mild cases, soak the affected area in a diluted povidone-iodine solution to disinfect it;

If the necrotic tissue has turned black and shriveled, it must be surgically removed by a veterinarian;

Keep the gecko in isolation and use sterile bedding (such as paper towels).

Note: Geckos store fat in their tails, so nutritional supplementation is necessary after amputation.

This may be water mold or a fungal infection.

Treatment:

Isolate the affected frog and treat it with a 0.5% saline solution bath for 10 minutes per day;

Disinfect the environment: Clean the enclosure with a fungal spray specifically designed for reptiles;

Keep the area dry and well-ventilated, and temporarily remove the water dish (provide drinking water only on a short-term basis).

Prevention: Control humidity (according to the species’ needs) and clean up waste regularly.

Emergency Measures:

Collect fresh feces and submit them to a veterinarian for testing;

Isolate the animal and disinfect the environment using high-temperature methods (such as steam cleaning);

Administer electrolyte solutions to prevent dehydration.

Treatment: The veterinarian may prescribe metronidazole (for protozoa) or fenbendazole (for worms).

Acclimatization Period:

At least 5–7 days; sensitive species (such as chameleons) require 1–2 weeks.

Important Notes:

Avoid frequent handling or disturbance, and minimize environmental noise;

Provide hiding spots (such as caves or plants) to reduce stress;

Do not feed for the time being (most reptiles will eat only after they have acclimated to their environment);

Maintain stable temperature and humidity levels; do not rush to adjust the equipment.

Reptiles are cold-blooded animals that rely on ambient temperature to regulate their metabolism:

Required temperature gradients:

Hot spot (e.g., basking area): 30–35°C (varies by species);

Cool area: 24–28°C, to allow the reptile to choose its preferred temperature;

Nighttime: May be lowered by 2–4°C, but not below 22°C for tropical species.

Equipment: Use a thermostat with a ceramic heat lamp or heating pad to avoid sudden temperature changes.

Chlorine, fluoride, and heavy metals in tap water can harm reptiles:

Safe handling:

Let tap water sit for 24 hours to allow the chlorine to evaporate;

Use a dechlorinator specifically designed for reptiles;

Or provide bottled water or cooled boiled water (especially for frogs and turtles).

Note: The water temperature for bathing should match the enclosure temperature (28–32°C).

Do Not Feed:

Insects: Wild-caught crickets (may contain pesticides), fireflies (highly toxic);

Plants: Onions, garlic, spinach (high in oxalic acid, which interferes with calcium absorption);

Meat: Raw pork (risk of parasites), high-fat meats (can cause liver disease).

Safe Options:

Farmed feed insects (such as Dubia roaches), specialized reptile and amphibian food.

Ventilation: Use mesh lids or side vents to prevent stuffiness (especially for arboreal species);

Gaps: Ensure gaps in the enclosure are narrower than the reptile’s head to prevent escape or getting stuck;

Materials: Avoid using pine or cedar (which emit toxic resins);

Equipment Securing: Heat lamps and water bowls must be securely fastened to prevent tipping and burns.

Parasite Control Guidelines:

Do not administer deworming medication if there are no symptoms (as the medication may damage the liver);

If there are abnormal feces or weight loss, have the animal tested before administering targeted medication;

Newly purchased reptiles should be quarantined for one month before being introduced to the group.

Preventive Measures:

Ensure food insects are raised in clean conditions (e.g., feed carrot slices to boost nutrition);

Clean the substrate regularly (remove feces promptly);

Avoid excessive humidity in the environment (to reduce the proliferation of insect eggs).